The Age Good Food Guide Awards 2011

If a bomb was dropped on the National Gallery of Victoria on Monday night, there would be many a restaurant go under this morning as their chefs and front of house crew would be no longer.  In what some might say was a star studded event, anyone who is anyone in the Melbourne food and wine scene ( and a few NOTB {North of the border}) gathered in the Great Hall of the NGV to rub shoulders with friends, colleagues and only-on-the-night-foes.

There was to be no shilly shallying about either.  A quick hello and a few air kisses, along with a customary glass of Louis Roederer, and into the seated area for the two hour award ceremony.  Hosted by Julia Zemiro in her inimitable fashion, we heard quite a bit of French spoken and more than the odd reference to RockWiz.  I was waiting for some sex lessons given her most recent series on the SBS but alas, not to be.

The one hat awards were quickly dispensed with, and there were some notable inclusions and exceptions that raised an eyebrow or two. One I was particularly rankled with was the awarding of a hat to Gordon Ramsay’s The Maze at Crown which is currently in liquidation and looks to see many suppliers out of pocket again .  One has to feel for these growers and producers who are left holding the baby when celebrity restaurants come and go.  What gets me more annoyed is that it seems Mr Ramsay can sit on the other side of the world and nary a care has to be displayed.   I am sure I was not the only one in the room to hold this view.

By all accounts there were more leaks than an old sieve for this years awards, which also beggars belief.  We saw major leaks several years ago from a well known journo at a rival publication, and yet he was tweeting himself last night about how leaky the good ship food guide was. Hope I wasn’t the only one to see that irony.   There were several notable exclusions that one has to question, including a nod for Hare and Grace, and St Peters. Lesser establishments were awarded hats, leaving one to wonder, at times out loud.

Then the slew of awards began.  There were some new awards this year and most notable a gong that recognises sustainable practices, given to Maurice Esposito of Esposito at Toofeys and St Peters.  Maurice is one of those down to earth blokes that really deserve such recognition.

Jason Lui of Flower Drum was given the Service Excellence award and rightly so. He has been at the helm of the new direction at this old stalwart.  Bengt Baumgartner of the European was also recognised for Sommerlier of the Year  and it was nice to see it go to someone other than the usual suspects.

NOTB (see above) blow in Neil Perry was provided with the Professional Excellence award – again there were some questions as to the validity of awarding this to a Sydneyneysider but not from me… however valid I may or may not think this is.   TOYS Collective were provided the Innovation award.  This movement started in Sydney and left some wondering how innovative it is to carbon copy an idea that had its genesis in Sydney and has been replicated here.

Gerald’s Bar, to much applause, was given the Donlevy Fitzpatrick award and again, rightly so.  The wine awards were nice surprises as well, with best regional wine list going to the Lake House and the Metro award to Spice Temple.

Melbourne has again caught up with Sydney recognising a legend of the industry.  Winner of this inaugural gong went to a man much respected right across the industry both here in Melbourne and Internationally.  Phillippe Mouchel of PM24 was the worthy recipient.

There were other awards and I don’t want to be lax in providing results from all of them… however much surprise and some shock was evident in the announcement of Dish of the Year.  In past years, this has been something on trend or trend breaking.  Movida’s veiled quail, Aaron Turner’s suckling pig and Ben Shewry’s smoked trout broth with crackling etc highlight the last three years offerings.  The shock came therefore when Dandelion’s BBQ Spare ribs was announced as Dish of the Year.  I was left wondering why and how and it was explained to me by a reviewer post awards announcement, however I remain unconvinced.  There are menus literally dripping with innovative use of amazing Victorian produce, and many a chef working to create unique and inspired dishes… I am just not sure that these ribs are it.  They are terrific ribs, don’t get me wrong.

Then to the big awards, as the night was wearing on.  Best Regional restaurant awarded to best new restaurant last year, Loam of Drysdale.  Aaron and Astrid Turner have done a wonderful job in providing a unique dining experience here and the award is richly deserved.  Josh Murphy of Cumulus Inc. was announced as the Young Chef of the Year – no controversy here and a good looking fellow to boot, as industry luminary Alla Wolf-Tasker suggested.

When the 2 Hat awards were announced for regional and metro Victoria, it wasn’t so much who was rewarded but the absences from  these lists that set the twitterverse into a spin.  The Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld noticeable by its absence and Attica likewise.  This only meant one thing and that was the awarding of 3 Hats to both of these venues.  For Attica this is well overdue.  Twice now Ben Shewry’s venue has been the only Victorian restaurant to make the San Pellegrino top 100 in the world and it is nice to see that it was recognised thus here as a worthy 3 Hat recipient at last.

It was fitting for these two venues to make their mark as 3 hatted venues, given the battle for Chef of the Year and Restaurant of the Year to come.  Dan Hunter of The Royal Mail awarded the first and Attica the second.  It is great recognition for both venues where chefs Dan and Ben show a deft touch with their food, inspiration and management of their teams. They also happen to be two of the nicest, most humble and dedicated blokes one could find anywhere near a sous vide machine.

All that remained were the obligatory glasses of sparkles and the gift bag grab, along with a whole bunch of seeing people we sometimes only see once a year. Overall, with some of the exceptions I have mentioned, a wonderful night and indeed year for the Melbourne and Victorian food industry.  One of the NOTB guests made references to Melbourne being the other foodie capital of the country.  I am afraid we eclipse you Sydney in so many ways, even if we do steal your ideas now and then.

All results can be found at http://www.theage.com.au/entertainment/restaurants-and-bars/the-age-good-food-guide-2012 and in the Epicure section of The Age today.